Browsing all posts in surfing.

Get obsessed and stay obsessed…after 30

(written to the Surfing playlist on Spotify)
For someone who can’t swim, surfing is not an obvious sport of choice.  A spectacular noisedive from a Malibu wave carried me like a puppet to the beach where it beat my knee stupid against the rocks. Oh how I cried. Not from the pain, but because I didn’t [...]

Surf & turf in a winter wonderland (I mean, UK)

It was 4 degrees (both air and water) when I did my first ever winter surf last Saturday in The Witterings. Crazy? Ha! Suicidal? Nah. Frustrated? Yeah, I’m so crap at surfing I didn’t even manage to properly pop-up. And I ended up looking like a puffy eye dragon following the session (still not sure [...]